Although wireless is simpler for a lot of
people, due to multimedia sharing, bandwidth on a home network, and paranoia
about wireless security, you may want to use a hard wired solution for home
networking. Having
a wired network at home allows you to have a private, high-speed network
for internet access, file sharing, media streaming, online gaming, IP security
cameras, and much more.
Here's a step-by-step guide to wiring your home with Cat5e or Cat6 ethernet cable. (If you're not sure of the difference between the two, check out this post.)
Step 1:
Initial Considerations and Planning
There are certain design considerations that need to be
addressed based on your needs.
- Which room(s) do
I want wired? I have a two-bedroom condo so I knew I wanted both
bedrooms wired. I also have a TV alcove where my cable TV is, so that
seemed like a good location to wire as well (especially for things like
video game consoles). Having cable TV in each of these locations, it
seemed logical to treat the network the same way.
- How many ports
do I want in each location? With multiple game consoles
and a network-enabled Blu-Ray player connected to my TV, I knew I wanted
at least three connections behind my TV. Since the wall plates come in 1,
2, 4, and 6-jack configurations (for single gang), I just went with 4. Why
run one cable when it's nearly as easy to run 4, right? Rather than vary
the number, I just ran 4 drops to each location to provide maximum
flexibility without the need for local (in-room) switches. Three locations
with four ports each = 12 ports total.
- What is a good
location for distribution? For me, the logical location
was my laundry room because my cable TV already comes into it and gets
split to each room. It's important to note that my internet comes into the
house (over the cable) here too, so if I move my cable modem here, it will
be able to supply internet access to the entire network. Another thing to
consider is the amount of space needed to mount a shelf to hold the
network equipment.
- What path should
the cables take? This
is probably the most difficult consideration. For me, my condo is on the
second (top) floor and I have access to my attic. My cable TV is
distributed through the attic, so it seemed like a good solution to run my
home network through there as well. For single floor homes with a
basement, the basement may be the best path. For multi-story homes you may
have to get creative. Outside could be an option, or through an old
laundry chute. (I won't address the specifics of all the possibilities,
just my own circumstances.) The other consideration with cable path is
cable length. The max cable length for up to gigabit speeds over copper
UTP cabling is 100 meters (~300 feet). This should provide plenty of
flexibility for most home applications, but it is good to be aware of this
limit.
- What network
speed do I need? This
will mainly play a part in what kind of switch to get. I used a 10mbps
switch because I got it for free, and it's still faster than most
everyone's home internet connection (you can probably pick up a really
cheap one—possibly even free—at a used computer store). But, if you're
going to be doing anything over the network—like playing games,
transferring files between computers, or anything like that—we definitely
recommend getting a gigabit switch. If you're buying a new switch, these
aren't that expensive these days, so there's little reason not to go
gigabit.
Next up, tools and materials!
Step 2:
Required Tools and Materials (and Costs)
Your tools and materials (and costs) can vary
a lot based on your needs and what you already have. I borrowed a lot of the
following tools, but here's a very basic, estimated breakdown:
Tools
Tools
- Ethernet
crimping tool (only if you're putting plug on the ends). Cost: $13 on Amazon.
- Drill (primarily
for drilling through wall top plates, but makes screwing faster too).
Cost: varies (I already had one).
- Paddle bit or
hole saw (size will vary by how many cables you're running). Cost: usually
around $20.
- Pointed hand saw
(this makes it easy to cut holes for the gang boxes/wall plates). Cost:
usually around $15.
- Strong string or
a fish tape. Cost: $30 on Amazon.
- Label maker
(optional).
- Pencil.
- Sharpie-type
marker.
- Ruler.
- Stud finder.
Cost: $13 on Amazon.
- Punchdown tool
(optional). I used a small screwdriver instead.
- Laptop or cable
tester (to test each drop). I used my laptop.
Materials
- 1000' spool
Cat5e or Cat6, Cat6 recommended (more or less based on your need). Cost:$105 on Monoprice.
- Single Gang
Retrofit Boxes (the kind that clamp to the drywall, open back). Cost:
$0.25 each.
- RJ45 Jacks and
plates (get what you need, maybe an extra or two). Cost: $0.35/plate; $14
for 12 jacks.
- RJ45 plugs
(optional). Cost: $5 for 10.
- Plastic grommet
(optional, makes the cabling look professional). Cost: $0.60.
- Patch panel
(optional, another professional touch). Cost: $33 and up on Amazon (I dragged
it out of the dumpster at work).
- Ethernet switch.
Cost: $32 for an 8 port gigabit switch.
- Router
(optional, may be required by you ISP). I already had one, and most of you
probably will too.
- Velcro strips
for cable management (optional). Cost: $3 for a roll.
- Short patch
cables (optional). Cost: $5, but will vary depending on length.
Now that we've (hopefully) got all the stuff
we need, lets mount the wall plates!
Step 3:
Mount the Wall Plates
Since I knew the path my cable TV took and it was in all of the
same locations that I wanted my ethernet jacks, I just located my cable TV
jacks to start. Using the stud finder I was able to tell which side of the
cable jack the stud was located on. Studs are located 16" apart in almost
all homes and I knew I wanted my ethernet to go in the same wall cavity as the
cable TV.
Once you've decided where to mount the box, you need to draw the lines on the wall to fit the new box and cut the hold with the pointed hand saw. The pointed saw should be able to push through the dry wall pretty easily without the need to drill starter holes.
Once you have the hole cut in the wall, you can put the single gang box into the hole and screw the clamps with hold it in place by clamping to the back of the dry wall. Repeat this for each location that you want to run to.
Once you've decided where to mount the box, you need to draw the lines on the wall to fit the new box and cut the hold with the pointed hand saw. The pointed saw should be able to push through the dry wall pretty easily without the need to drill starter holes.
Once you have the hole cut in the wall, you can put the single gang box into the hole and screw the clamps with hold it in place by clamping to the back of the dry wall. Repeat this for each location that you want to run to.
Pictured above: A hole to fit the grommet. It's a nice
professional-looking touch.
For now we'll leave the wall plates off.
At this time you'll also want to cut a hole in the wall in the distribution room. Here you want to cut a hole that the plastic grommet will fit into.
Next: we can run cables.
At this time you'll also want to cut a hole in the wall in the distribution room. Here you want to cut a hole that the plastic grommet will fit into.
Next: we can run cables.
Step 4:
Measure and Run the Cables
Pictured above: Hole
drilled in the top plate of the wall. String dropped down with a bolt tied to
it so I could pull up the cables.
There are a number of ways to do this. You can
estimate, measure from floor plans, run one, etc. I used the run one method. To
find the lengths required for each run, I ran one cable to each room from the
distribution room, pulled it out, and made three more like it. After that, you
can run all four together. You'll also want to label both ends of each cable
with a sharpie. This way you can label the ports on both ends.
Before you can do this, however, you need to drill through the wall top plates so that you can drop the cables into the walls where you've cut the holes. Finding the right place to drill in the top plate (to make sure you get in the right 16" gap between studs) can be tricky. This is another reason I decided to follow the coax cables for cable TV. I traced down the cable TV through that attic and then drilled new holes in the top plate right next to the cable TV holes. You'll need a powerful drill and either a paddle bit or a hole saw for this. The hole saw is easier but the paddle bit is cheaper. I used a 1 1/4" paddle bit and it was hard to control and strained the drill at times. You can also opt to drill multiple small holes and use one for each cable—although this makes running them a bit harder since you can't tape the bundle together.
Once you have the top holes drilled you can string out some cable to measure how much for each run, then cut three more equal lengths per run, and re-run the cables. Be sure to make them long enough that you have some extra from stripping and crimping accidents. It's always easy to tuck extra length into the wall.
Next up: making connections.
Before you can do this, however, you need to drill through the wall top plates so that you can drop the cables into the walls where you've cut the holes. Finding the right place to drill in the top plate (to make sure you get in the right 16" gap between studs) can be tricky. This is another reason I decided to follow the coax cables for cable TV. I traced down the cable TV through that attic and then drilled new holes in the top plate right next to the cable TV holes. You'll need a powerful drill and either a paddle bit or a hole saw for this. The hole saw is easier but the paddle bit is cheaper. I used a 1 1/4" paddle bit and it was hard to control and strained the drill at times. You can also opt to drill multiple small holes and use one for each cable—although this makes running them a bit harder since you can't tape the bundle together.
Once you have the top holes drilled you can string out some cable to measure how much for each run, then cut three more equal lengths per run, and re-run the cables. Be sure to make them long enough that you have some extra from stripping and crimping accidents. It's always easy to tuck extra length into the wall.
Next up: making connections.
Step 5:
Connect the Wires to the Jacks and Patch Panel
Pictured above: RJ-45
plug diagram.
Now the we've got the cables run we can punch
down the the cables to the patch panel and the to jacks. I noted in the
materials that a patch panel was optional. You can take the
raw cable directly out of the wall, put a RJ-45 plug on it, and plug directly
into the switch. But for permanent installation, I feel it's much more
professional to mount a patch panel.
Pictured above: Cables
punched down to the back of the patch panel.
This is pretty easy. Most patch panels and jacks have diagrams with wire color diagrams for the common T568A and T568B wiring standards. To be honest, I don't know if either would work. I've seen "A" used for ISDN before, but in looking at the T568B color guide I recognized it as the same as the tons of patch cables I've made before. So I went with it. Make sure you use the same on both ends. You can use the punch down tool or a small screw driver to punch the individual wires.
Once you have all the cables connected, you can mount the patch panel to the wall and click the jacks into their respective wall plates on the other ends. You can also screw the wall plates into the gang boxes.
This is pretty easy. Most patch panels and jacks have diagrams with wire color diagrams for the common T568A and T568B wiring standards. To be honest, I don't know if either would work. I've seen "A" used for ISDN before, but in looking at the T568B color guide I recognized it as the same as the tons of patch cables I've made before. So I went with it. Make sure you use the same on both ends. You can use the punch down tool or a small screw driver to punch the individual wires.
Once you have all the cables connected, you can mount the patch panel to the wall and click the jacks into their respective wall plates on the other ends. You can also screw the wall plates into the gang boxes.
Pictured above: Short
patch cables up to the switch. The aluminum is the bottom of the shelf that the
switch sits on.
Now we can make sure things work!
Now we can make sure things work!
Step 6:
Test Your Connections
Pictured above: Testing
1,2,3...
Before you start connecting most of the
network components, you want to test all of the connections to be sure things
are working. This can be done a number of ways. If you actually have a network
tester, then you probably know what you're doing. You're on your own. The
method I used was a little different.
I plugged a short patch cable from my patch panel to each port on my switch and turned it on. Since it's a managed switch, I set each port to be "up/up" and "auto negotiate." Unmanaged switches will not need to configure anything.
The next step is to take another patch cable and a laptop and plug it into each port in each room. Check the switch after each port and verify the "link" indicator is on. Being able to establish a link tests the physical layer (i.e. no broken wires, all tight crimps, no crossed wires), as well as the data link layer (i.e. negotiation between network card and switch port). No IP addressing or anything needed for testing.
I plugged a short patch cable from my patch panel to each port on my switch and turned it on. Since it's a managed switch, I set each port to be "up/up" and "auto negotiate." Unmanaged switches will not need to configure anything.
The next step is to take another patch cable and a laptop and plug it into each port in each room. Check the switch after each port and verify the "link" indicator is on. Being able to establish a link tests the physical layer (i.e. no broken wires, all tight crimps, no crossed wires), as well as the data link layer (i.e. negotiation between network card and switch port). No IP addressing or anything needed for testing.
Pictured above: Neat and
clean lables for each port actually go where they say they do. MB = Master
Bedroom, SB = Second Bedroom, etc.
This is also a good time to make sure your labeling matches on both ends. For example, you can make sure that "Master Bedroom Port 2" on your patch panel actually goes to the second port in the master bedroom.
Now, to the internet, and beyond!
This is also a good time to make sure your labeling matches on both ends. For example, you can make sure that "Master Bedroom Port 2" on your patch panel actually goes to the second port in the master bedroom.
Now, to the internet, and beyond!
Step 7:
Connect to the Internet
Pictured above: Cable
gets split to: 1. Main TV, 2. Cable Modem, 3. Second splitter. Second Splitter
goes to each bedroom. I'm less concerned about signal degradation there but the
runs are short enough that I don't need amplifiers.
Now that we've got this fancy network, we want
to connect it to the internet right?
First: the cable modem setup. Since I moved my cable modem from my second bedroom (office) to the distribution room, I needed to change the way my cable was split. Rather than the main cable into the house being split three ways, I split things a little differently. I split the incoming cable with a three-way splitter first: one to the main TV, one to the two-way splitter for TV in the bedrooms, and the other into the cable modem. I connected the splitters using a male-male barrel connector.
Now that the cable modem is in the right place we can continue with our network setup. Depending on your internet provider some of this setup may vary. (I'm going to discuss the specifics of my environment only, but will provide tips for others when possible.)
From the cable modem ethernet port I plugged into the "Untrusted" port on my router/firewall. From the "Trusted" port, I connected to the first switch port on my switch. If your switch has one, plug into the port labeled "Uplink" instead. Depending on the switch or cable modem and/or router, you may need (or already have) crossover cables for these connections. With my router/firewall set up as a DHCP server I can now provide each port access to the internet. In addition, my entire network is protected from outside access by the firewall.
First: the cable modem setup. Since I moved my cable modem from my second bedroom (office) to the distribution room, I needed to change the way my cable was split. Rather than the main cable into the house being split three ways, I split things a little differently. I split the incoming cable with a three-way splitter first: one to the main TV, one to the two-way splitter for TV in the bedrooms, and the other into the cable modem. I connected the splitters using a male-male barrel connector.
Now that the cable modem is in the right place we can continue with our network setup. Depending on your internet provider some of this setup may vary. (I'm going to discuss the specifics of my environment only, but will provide tips for others when possible.)
From the cable modem ethernet port I plugged into the "Untrusted" port on my router/firewall. From the "Trusted" port, I connected to the first switch port on my switch. If your switch has one, plug into the port labeled "Uplink" instead. Depending on the switch or cable modem and/or router, you may need (or already have) crossover cables for these connections. With my router/firewall set up as a DHCP server I can now provide each port access to the internet. In addition, my entire network is protected from outside access by the firewall.
Pictured above from top
left: Firewall, Cable Modem, Wireless Access Point, 24 port managed 100 megabit
switch, cable management and patch panel.
Although it's not integral to this instructable, I also plugged a wireless access point into my switch so that I can have wireless access as well. Since my wireless is both encrypted and has MAC filtering, I feel comfortable with it on the "trusted" side of my firewall. If for some reason I wanted to provide open wireless access but still protect my network, I would need a different configuration of connections. (I won't go into detail about these changes but I wanted to note them depending on what your network goals are and how they might incorporate wireless access.)
In summary, my firewall receives my single, static IP from my ISP cable modem. It also acts as a router and provides DHCP IP addresses to all other hosts on my private network via the switch and cabling we just installed.
What the hell do we do with it now?!? NEXT!
Although it's not integral to this instructable, I also plugged a wireless access point into my switch so that I can have wireless access as well. Since my wireless is both encrypted and has MAC filtering, I feel comfortable with it on the "trusted" side of my firewall. If for some reason I wanted to provide open wireless access but still protect my network, I would need a different configuration of connections. (I won't go into detail about these changes but I wanted to note them depending on what your network goals are and how they might incorporate wireless access.)
In summary, my firewall receives my single, static IP from my ISP cable modem. It also acts as a router and provides DHCP IP addresses to all other hosts on my private network via the switch and cabling we just installed.
What the hell do we do with it now?!? NEXT!
Step 8:
Make Your Geek Friends Drool with These Cool Options
There are some cool additions that you can make to your home
network that will make your geek friends jealous.
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